This is why the Believe dat UFO shirt and by the same token and several tons of damp clay taken from the L.A. studio of British artist Thomas Houseago—who has a statue currently installed in the center of the Palais de Tokyo courtyard as part of his “Almost Human” show at the Musee de l’Art Moderne—made for such a fitting addition to this show’s mise-en-scène. Houseago, Owens reported, had been on set to oversee the installation of the clay and even ended up creating a small sculpture (one that Owens fully intended to pinch, fire, and add to his collection). Houseago was just one in a chorus of creative voices that harmonized around this collection. Although there were some very overtly personal and Mexican touches, such as sequins reflecting China Poblana festival wear and the Aztec Eagle logo of the United Farm Workers’ association, for whose Mexican migrant pickers Owens’s father often worked as a translator in the California courts (these garments and a piece of jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW), he said he was very careful to avoid the folkloric side of Mexican culture. Instead, he said, he had become fascinated with the effect of Mexican culture on the work of Josef and Anni Albers, the subject of a recent-ish show at the Guggenheim. Owens expounded: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” With the exception of some Perspex-heeled platforms and rough tire-sole cowskin sandals that caused much trepidation as the models descended steps while keeping their eyes fixed on the pit, it was also a collection abrim with highly wearable pieces. Personally I loved the cotton jackets in black and white set with austere, angled grids of ribbon and lacing, which was sometimes reflected in a riot of lacing on a Veja collab sneaker and looped into the fabric of some loose wool track pants. The sequins incorporated one-color oversize tailoring and looked pleasingly sleazy, while metallic-finished outerwear boasted a brutal industrial shimmer. In collaboration with Champion, Owens primitivized its cotton jersey via transformation into togas and loincloths. The fundamentals of most companies are not keeping up with the financial damage done by the pandemic and as the US continues to have soaring covid cases this will further create more stress on corporations. For now speculation is running ahead of the fundamentals especially for this quarter. Biotechnology is in a huge bubble in terms of the numbers of new Biotech IPOs being underwritten that have no revenues or earnings but retail investor rush to buy them.
Believe dat UFO shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt
“My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage this collection was the Believe dat UFO shirt and by the same token and first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-the-border roots. As he said at the top, however, Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract and that abstraction was reflected in the collection. One prosaic reason for this is he only revisited his mother’s homeland this year, for the first time in 30. Another is that just as in the last-season cycle of awesome Larry LeGaspi shows his themes are, ultimately, just one of the raw materials in a creative clay that is every season shaped by his design and in his own image. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in clothing created by Owens. Purple Label is Ralph Lauren’s jewel in the crown, a cultivated exercise in fine tailoring, where a quintessential sense of ease is infused with sophisticated polish. A palette of soft tonal colors, a slightly vintage insouciance, a fluidity of fit and balance of proportions come to mind when thinking of Purple Label’s signature aesthetic. Yet at today’s presentation at the label’s sumptuous Milanese headquarters, what stood out was a gorgeous, visually compelling lineup of brightly colored evening suits in shades of saturated yellow, fuchsia, and orange. Slim fitting and sharply cut in silk shantung, they looked exceptional, pointing towards an updated approach, with a zest of chic playfulness: “They’re tailored with a lighter construction, but still maintaining sartorial proportions,” said John Wrazej, executive vice president and creative director of men’s design. “They’re all handmade; it’s our uncompromising way of tailoring. They’re probably among the best suits you can find.” However, speculation is its own creature that continues far longer than is logical or rational. Speculation can drive prices to the stratosphere and often does. Energy stocks during the last Recession were highly speculated. Anything connected with shale or sand oil was way above the fundamentals at times that.